Bribery and Bureaucracy
- Escalate matters to higher authorities when necessary.
Views and Reviews, News and Cues, Travels and Travails
I did this for 3 years. It was probably the only ritual in my whole life that I pursued with passion and continuity.
Then by some stroke of luck I managed to complete my education and was shooed off to work in the big bad world.
My first day at work and my first time living out of home – It was the first time I had to think of my next meal. It was like the first day at kindergarten where the boss looked as scary as the headmistress with a whip and the receptionist like the matron with a baton in hand. And when I came home I realized something was wrong upon Cloud no. 9.
I started seeing angels not because I soon got my first salary cheque but because when I was put under the test of fire I really saw and truly felt the smiles even in times of pain. It took me a journey from a cozy comfortable nest called home to the dog eat dog world to realize that.
Kuwait
March 14-15, 2008
There was nothing stopping 2 girls from making 2 unplanned trips with 2 cheap tickets. Then 2 officers held us back at the Kuwait airport looking doubly suspiciously at our online visit VISAs, though I had confirmed the validity of the VISA twice. While my heart rate increased by 20 % thinking we might have to spend 2 nights at Kuwait International Airport we soon got out of trouble smiling at the officers who saw our return ticket of 2 days and let us go.
Ruchira and I were received by our good friend and colleague Fakhruddin who drove us into the city continuously bragging about the modernity of the city, having 10% of the world’s oil reserves for the next 100 years, being one of the world’s richest economies in terms of per capita income etc. The city ha
d good infrastructure, though not half as vibrant or glamourous as Dubai. We were glad not to be stuck in traffic jams. We reached Sunita’s house – our most wonderful host for the weekend and savoured an authentic Punjabi meal in its full glory. After the gup shup and Gulab Jamoons we donned our glares and drove into Gulf Road to see the gallons of water stored in the glorious Kuwait towers. These towers to a large extent define the landmark of the city much like the Emirates towers of Dubai, twin towers of Kuala Lampur etc. Locally known as Dasman and Sharq they are 2 spherical structures mounted on towers 79 metres high and can hold up to 4.5 million gallons of water for local use. Reading Lonely Planet helps.We soon descended into the corniche of Kuwait City. It was a pristine walkway - with the gentle drops of water lashing our face, wind running through our hair and the Sun staring down at us. All our attempts at trick photography, trying to look as tall as the towers failed miserably. Its not so much fun to be vertically and photographically challenged.
We then left to the Matrah Souq (pronounced as Soukhhhhh – with the Arabic throat gargle). The major population had deserted the other parts of the city only to make their money at this market place. The place was alive with the odour of traditional spices, fish, meat, fruits and of course the fake Rolex watches and Gucci handbags that come from India and China. We did experiment on some cutting chai at a local coffee shop, but cut our culinary adventures right there.
Next day we were off to National Science Centre, a modest attempt on the part of the government to promote something apart from trade and commerce. We did enjoy seeing the 3D movie and the discovery science centre. The aquarium was the highlight. Looking at Marine life - however little you see of it always gives a sense of how badly we need to preserve the bio diversity on this planet. The sharks, rays, alligators in captivity looked at us woefully through the looking glass.
After briefly driving through the city we landed in a shopping mall for lunch. The mall is a symbol of the Middle East. Beneath the abayas (customary black robe) most women don designer clothes, freshly done make up and grooming befitting that of a princess. I stopped wondering who buys the golden handbags, fluorescent orange sandals and parrot green eye shadow.
We took our backpacks and packed off into the packed Jazeera airlines.
Bahrain
April 4-5, 2008
We slowly understood the funda behind fast cars and decided to go watch the grand Formula 1 Grand Prix at Bahrain. Getting a VISA was easier than drawing money from a queue less ATM. Landing in Bahrain international airport we were gripped by the red of Formula 1 fever. The entire city seemed to be reeling under the speed of readying for the race.
We drove through the arid archipelago of 33 islands and into Manama old souq area where we were booked. The city boasted an impressive architecture, a well spread out and impressive skyline and good roads. After all it was the fastest growing city of the Middle East. If Dubai is the queen of the Middle East, Bahrain can well be termed the Crown Prince. The old souq area was like the Linking Road of Bandra or Avenue Road of Bangalore. It was extremely crowded, dotted with tiny little shops and abuzz with trading activity. A sharp cont
rast to the wide avenues we had left behind. The hotel was by far our worst decision –rickety old aircons that sounded like a truck, squeaky doors that can spook you after a scary movie, musty carpets over which i had a strong urge to spray my entire deodrant bottle and opening the window to hear the endless chatter of jobless men.Ruch has still not forgiven me for taking her to Annapurna Veg. Restaurant to eat roti and dal - a golden opportunity missed at eating big black hairy lobsters.
After an afternoon siesta we walked into the central city area and headed for Seef Mall. Asking for directions from a Bangladeshi was our second worst decision. All the man glibly said was – Follow me. So we followed for miles through the super highways, jumped over fences, crouched through tunnels and scampered through some deserted desert land, surrounded by heaps of nothingness. We looked like we were practising for the world fast walking competition.
Reaching the mall after one and a half hours on foot was a huge relief. The mall is in the central part of Bahrain and our tempers were cooled off after some chocolate ice cream. We collected our tickets for the Race the following day and decided not to walk back. An evening at the corniche overlooking glitzy Manama city gave us some sound sleep in spite of all the blaring music and snoring aircons.
The following morning we took the bus to the Circuit. The Circuit was sprawled over acres of the desert land. We had to take the bus to move from one stand to another. After much ado we found our seats, we were glad to be saving money and not buying the most expensive seats and to be seated far away from the deafening sound of the race cars. The energy on the circuit was indeed definitely worth it. Work commitments only allowed us to see the practice race; however the whole experience evoked in us an interest in speed.
After the race, we decided to do some sightseeing. Neelay joined in for the sight seeing and had his share of arguing with a cab driver who decided to dump us in the desert if we did not pay up more. The first visit was to something called – Tree of Life. Now we drove hundreds of miles in the desert just to see a big Banyan tree. For all of us from tropical areas braving through the dust and nausea for many miles just to see a tree did not seem exactly exciting.However the point was that this lush tree flourished in between dry, arid climate and with no signs of water or fertility around. On the way we did spot some oil pipelines and took some pictures with scores of camels lounging around.
The Saudi - Bahrain causeway was indeed worth it. It is a highway that connects the 2 countries across the Arabian Gulf. While we had to stop at the border of Saudi Arabia we climbed the tower to see the country from the top. The best view we could get of Saudi Arabia without a burqha. A gorgeous view that remained etched in our mind's reservoir.
The dogs may bark but the caravan moves on.
- Arabic proverb
We were back to number crunching, munching and slumber in office the next day.
Dec 3-8, 2007
I landed dreamy eyed in the Land of Dreams.
There was some rigorous passport control by the Schwarzenegger look like officers who look at you in the eye like they have done you the world’s biggest favor. I gathered my impressions about JFK airport while standing in the serpentine queue for immigration. A huge functional airport and a boring contrast to all the bling I had left behind at the Dubai airport. I guess my eyes needed some rest.
I tried to pull a trolley cart to lug my heavy bag along. It dint seem to move. Then someone enlightened me – You hafta put 3 dollas in there. 3 Dollars! Well huh – the bag wasn’t that heavy after all. A 2 hour drive where I put my jetlag of 10.5 hours behind me took me to Madison City, New Jersey.
Madison hotel where we were put up for the meetings was a cozy one and far removed from the urban din. It was a very pretty locality with pine trees kissed with flurries of snow and nestled in a thick white sheet. There were little stand alone cottages with their little gardens and shrouded in the woods. Was I still dreaming or looking at my dream home!
I soon met my colleagues and we took the train into town. The whole set up was very Europeanish. It was a charming little town with a few bars and restaurants – and too cold to be walking on the streets. We got a good feel of the place and returned to brace ourselves for the marathon meetings. We needed a good night’s sleep to keep awake the next two days.
The day started with a sumptuous American breakfast and a good round of introductions. The fruitful discussions spilled over into the fruity smelling train we took into New York that evening. We had some able American colleagues who took us straight to Times Square.
My first glance of New York City and I knew instantly why people love to hate this place. The place oozes with American dreams. It had so many sky scrapers that you lose sight of the sky. The brilliant lights, the attractive shop windows, the numerous stretch limos whizzing past, the massively lit up hoardings, the colourful tourist buses doing the rounds, cartoon characters dancing on the streets – all add character to the place.
Then we popped into a Deli for dinner. When I sheepishly asked for a vegetarian option the waitress politely told me –‘It’s a Deli darling!’ The dishes were named after famous personalities. So people derived a lot of pleasure by devouring into an Adolf Hitler or a Rudy Giuliani. The portions were in true American size – humungous enough to feed a family of four. Well they taught the world to dream big – dint they?
We continued to stroll around 5th avenue and Times Square Centre for a while after dinner and I was truly amazed by the crowds on a cold winter night at -2 deg. C. With 2 jackets, 2 pairs of gloves, 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of trousers I was almost officially frozen.
Next day it was back to work in the morning followed by fun in the evening. We were taken to US office at Giralda farms followed by an evening of line dancing at a Rodeo style club. After some dancing lessons where everyone dances in a uniform style standing in a line we were drawn to the main attraction – a mechanical bull. It was mounted on a red rubber enclosure and dimmed with some red lights for the ambience. The trick lied in holding on to the bull’s horns for as long as you can before the bull yanked you off. Some strong hearted people did indeed put on their cowboy hats and tried a hand at it.
The next morning after all the goodbyes to my dear colleagues I headed into New York City again. With a splitting head ache and a cabbie that just would not refuse to stop talking I was ready to jump off the cab. Then again it was a refreshing change from the grumpy cabbies I meet back home who sometimes suggest to me to walk up the distance instead.
I reached Madhu’s house, my school friend who I met after 8 years! I was delighted to be feasting on some Indian food and reminiscing with her about the good old days. We then decided to venture into the city and meet the lady herself – Statue of Liberty. We decided to take the last ferry from Battery Park into Ellis Island only to be told that the last ferry is normally cancelled during winter. We had to be content watching her from a distance. The cold air made my nose look like a cherry and my skin as dry and flaky as fish scales.
I then decided to see the city on one of those Hop on Hop Off buses. The tour operator offered different loops. I decided to do the night loop – to see NY when it sparkled. I did get a good feel of the place when the eloquent bus guides explained and sang songs for tips. Starting from Times Square we passed by Empire State Building, Rockfeller centre and the Christmas tree there, the colourful Macy’s windows, Central Park and Manhattan Bridge. While I wasn’t all that impressed with the traffic scenario I was definitely impressed with the energy in the city.
Then I took the subway back to Madhu’s house at Queens. Following the instructions to precision I felt rather accomplished reaching home on my own. Queens is one of the five boroughs of NY – Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx and Staten Island. And coming back to Queens from Manhattan was like coming into a different world altogether. It is a very live-able place with down to earth houses, shops and eateries. A predominantly Asian area - I even saw a saree shop!
The next day I felt like quite a veteran taking the subway back to Manhattan to complete my tour on the hop on and hop off bus. People sing songs, recite home grown poems, and play the guitar to earn a living on trains. The country takes everyone in its fold. Whether you are dressed in Armani suits or flannels nobody gives you weird looks. So everybody has a distinct identity. That’s when I realised that this county is the gateway to dreams. The differences enrich them. Hard work is well rewarded. I would imagine people to be hardnosed but to my pleasant surprise they were very polite. Every single person I asked for directions or help helped me out with a genuine smile. It did justify the tag of ‘most polite city’ given by Readers Digest.
I finished the Downtown Loop and the Brooklyn loop of the tour and managed to get a bird’s eye view of the city. From Ground Zero to Harlem, Chinatown to Greenwich Village, Wall Street to Trump Tower I did manage to get some fleeting glimpses of the important landmarks that make the big apple.
As I got off the tour bus to take the subway back flurries of snow gently perched themselves on my face. I looked up and received them with a content smile. I looked back at the glitz and looked ahead into the musty unglamorous subway station where a band was playing – ‘We built this city… We built this city on rock and roll’.